April 29th, 2009 by admin

Men’s Journal magazine has an excellent interview with Todd Carmichael, who discusses his solo, unsupported, and record setting, journey to the South Pole this past season.

Some of the details of his ordeal are told for the first time in this story. For instance, it is revealed that for the last ten day of the journey, Todd was coughing up blood, even while he slept. One morning, he even awoke to find pieces of frostbitten lung in his spit. At that point in the expedition, both of his satellite phones were non-functional, and his stove was refusing to light. As anyone who follows polar explorers knows, the stove is perhaps their most important piece of equipment, allowing them to melt snow for water, as well as cooking meals, and warming the tent. Without it, it is one lonely, miserable experience.

Things didn’t exactly improve from there. In his fatigue, Todd packed a leaky fuel canister with the last of his food and his GPS, all of which ended up ruined. Without food or a GPS to find his way, things definitely looked bleak, and the usual suffering associated with a 700 mile solo journey to the South Pole were amplified many times over.

But of course, we know now that Todd survived, and arrived at the South Pole in record time, besting the old record by just a few hours. This article tells us the rest of the story in regards to that journey, and you’ll come away with an even greater respect for Todd. Seriously amazing stuff.

April 29th, 2009 by admin

As predicted yesterday, teams on Manaslu were able to make successful summits today. ExWeb is reporting that Joao Garcia and the Korean team on the mountain have reached the top after nine hours of difficult climbing. Even better news, is that the climbers are already down from the summit and back in BC. For Garcia, this is his 12 8000m peak, all with out oxygen. He has just Nanga Parbat and Annapurna left on the list. Congrats to Joao and the Koreans for a job well done. Great work under difficult conditions.

Over on Everest, Billi Bierling updates her blog on the Himex expedition. The team is back from Lobuje Peak, where they made a second acclimatization climb, and are now settled into BC once again. In the case of Himex, BC is actually a bit of a hike down the Khumbu Valley from traditional base camp. Billi also reports that all of their Sherpas have returned from C2, where they’ve been stashing gear and setting up the high camps.

The Eight Summits team is releasing daily audio dispatches on their website, which always contain interesting information about what they are doing, and where they are at on the mountain. Today, one of the Sherpas lays out the plan for the days ahead, with the team moving up and down the mountain to finish their acclimatization process before the summit bid in a few weeks time.

Most of the news from Everest today has been on the quiet side. The Sherpas are moving up and down the South Col, setting up camps, while the teams are mostly staying put in BC, working on skills, and resting before making their way up to C3 soon. Just another day on the mountain at this point of the climb, and by the middle of the month, they’ll be looking back fondly on these rest days.

Finally, sad news from Annapurna, where, Outside Online is reporting that Czech climber Martin Minarik has gone missing. Minarik, was originally climbing with Dodo Kopold, and Elizabeth Revol, but Kopold left to make his solo climb on Annapurna South that I mentioned earlier today, while Minarik and Revol made a second attempt on Annapurna I. According to the report, the pair made it as high as 8016 meters before turning back, and on the descent they split up, as Minarik was suffering from frostbite and exhaustion. Revol made it down from the mountain, but Martin hasn’t been seen sense. Lets hope for the best, but it has already been two days, and things are not looking good. My thoughts are with Martin’s family at the moment.

April 29th, 2009 by admin

The Hardwear Sessions, official blog of Mountain Hardwear, is reporting that that Ueli Steck and Simon Anthamatten have won one of three 2009 Piolet d’Or awards, given out annually for outstanding accomplishments in mountaineering. The amazing duo took home their prize for their first ascent, in Alpine Style, of the North Face of Tengkampoche, a 6500m peak in the Khumbu Valley.

Upon winning the award, Ueli released the following statement:

I

t is a great honour for me to receive the “Piolets d’Or 2009″ award. This award is given away by mountaineers who know what alpinism is all about. This prize should also be trendsetting. Therefore it is a great confirmation that Simon and I are on the right track. Alpinism is not comparable. First of all it is a matter of personal experience and personal challenge. That’s why it is important to be able to follow some rules. With today’s modern technique everything is achievable. Every mountain can be climbed. But the mountain is no longer the determining link between success and failure. Personally this is exactly what most matters: that the alpinist is the most important element between success and failure and not primarily the technical means. Thanks to all my sponsors, which have been supporting me during all these years and who give me the opportunity to realise such idealistic goals.

Thank you also to Simon: this was one of the most beautiful expeditions I could experience.

Although this prize was for 2009 I am proud of all my ascents. And we do not have to forget: it’s not over yet, it will go on. I am totally consumed by my projects. And the next one is closer than we might think.”

Ueli and Simon are a class act both on the mountain and off, and everyone already knows their part in the Inaki Ochoa incident last year on Annapurna. Obviously this award is well deserved, as they exemplify everything that the spirit of mountaineering is all about.

The other two winners of the Piolet d’Or include Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi completing the first ascent of the South-West face of Kamet and Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano, also of Japan, opening a new route on the North Face of Kalanka. Both climbs were completed in Alpine Style.

Congrats to all the winners.

April 29th, 2009 by admin

It’s been another busy couple of days in the Himalaya, where things continue to progress on mountains all over the region.

Probably the biggest news out of the Himalaya is that it looks like the summit of Manaslu could well be a busy place tomorrow, with potentially 20 people topping out. ExWeb is reporting that summit bids were turned back yesterday when climbers reached a 300 foot vertical ice wall at 7100m. The wall is described as very technical and demanding, requiring teams to put up new fixed ropes, which slowed down the progress. It was too late in the day yesterday for that to happen, so the ropes were installed today, and everyone will take their shot at the summit tomorrow. Good luck everyone! Climb safe!

ExWeb is also reporting that Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb have reached the summit of Lunag Ri, and have also safely returned to base cam, completely the first ascent of that mountain. The 6907m mountain was the highest unclimbed peak in the Himalaya that was also permissible to climb. There are other, taller, unclimbed mountains, but no permits are issued for them due to cultural or religious restrictions. Congrats to Joe and David for the for reaching the top and getting back down in one piece.

Switching focus over to the Big Show, Alan Arnette is reporting that weather conditions have changed on Everest, with high winds shifting to the area, blowing things all over the mountain. On his Everest 2009 page, Alan talks to Michael Fagin of EverestWeather.com, who tells us to expect the warmer than normal temperatures on Everest to continue into May, but that it is far too early to say if the mid-month weather window will open up as expected.

The Peak Freaks posted a new blog update, and they weigh in on the windstorm hitting the area. The whole team is currently back in BC, and there is a real fear that the high winds will blow C2 off the mountain. For now though, they’ll have to sit and wait and see what happens. They also report that their weather sources are telling them to expect heavy precipitation beginning around the first of May.

Meanwhile, the IMG team, who updated their dispatches this morning, with the news that their Sherpa team is now up at C3, where they are caching supplies, including three more tents. They also note that winds have died down some today, making it a bit more comfortable on the mountain.

Finally, Ben Clark, Josh Butson, and Jonathan Miller, the team that has targeted the 23,390 foot Baruntse in their attempt to Ski The Himalayas reached base camp on Friday. Ben calls it the most spectacular BC he’s been in since first coming to the Himalaya seven years earlier, with great views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu. Ben also reports that everyone is feeling great, and are ready to go, but that they are taking a little down time to rest and acclimatize before they start scouting the mountain. If all goes well, in a few weeks time, they’ll be making their way up to the summit, and then making the first descent by skis as well. Sounds like fun!

April 29th, 2009 by admin

Each spring, just like clockwork, a young man’s (and woman’s!) heart turns to thoughts of sunshine, blooming flowers, and of course new gear! We’re all heading outside to take in the great weather, many of us for the first time in months, and nothing gets you excited about playing outside more than new outdoor equipment. Thankfully, National Geographic Adventure is here to help us spend some of that hard earned cash on the best new products for spring. (Economic crisis? What economic crisis?!?)

As usual, you’ll find an interesting mix of gadgets and outdoor equipment to keep us busy in the months ahead. Adventure starts the list off with a pair of speakers from iHome Audio, that when paired with an mp3 player, will have base camp rockin’. From there, they move into the serious stuff, including four great packs, like the ACT Trail 32 from Deuter, which is a great daypack with easy access and the ability to carry a solid load. There are plenty of other great items on the list as well, including some suggestions for a new bike, road or mountain, a waterproof camera phone from Casio, and a cool new tent that includes a garage for your bike from Mountain Hardwear.

Obviously Adventure has a few suggestions for all of us, no matter what our outdoor passion is. Whether camping, hiking, paddling, cycling, or just relaxing, they have new items that you’ll want to add to your gear closet. Be warned before clicking on over, “Gear Lust” is a vary real phenomenon, and I’m not responsible for increased credit card bills or angry spouses.

April 29th, 2009 by admin

It was a big weekend at the top of the world, with two teams accomplishing their goal of reaching the North Pole, while the Barneo Ice Station closes for another season.

We’ll start with the Victorinox North Pole 09 Team, consisting of John Huston and Tyler Fish. The two Americans found themselves in a race against time this weekend in order to reach the North Pole and still catch the last plane out to Barneo Station, and then home. The deteriorating ice conditions at Barneo forced the closure of the Russian Base, which meant John and Tyler had to arrive at the Pole by yesterday morning. They worked overtime to get there, and made it, becoming the first American team to go unsupported to the Pole. Congrats guys!

The Peary Centennial Expedition also lists their current position as 90ºN, with team members Lonnie Dupre, Max Chaya, and Stuart Smith all arriving safely after 53 days on the ice, covering 650 miles in the process. The trio arrived on Saturday morning, giving themselves plenty of time to enjoy the view and reflect on their achievement before they too caught the plane to Barneo on Sunday. Congrats to the team for a job well done as well, and a second round of congratulations to Max, who has now reached the “Three Poles”, having been to both the North and South Pole and the summit of Everest. Well done Max!

The latest updates on Christina Franco’s page indicate that she is heading home as well. There aren’t a lot of details to be gathered from her posts just yet , but Christina was making a Last Degree journey to the Pole as a training exercise for next year’s attempt at a solo journey from the Canadian side of the ice. I’m sure we’ll hear more once she’s back in civilization, but it seems she accomplished her goal as well.

Meanwhile, the Catlin Arctic Survey Team seem unconcerned with how they plan to get off the ice. They’ve now been out for 57 days, and covered more than 230 miles, with another 340 to go before the get to the Pole. But they’re carrying sensitive scientific equipment along with them, including ground penetrating radar, and their goal has always been to gauge the healthy of the Polar ice, and determine the effects of global climate change on the region. From all accounts, that mission is going well, but they will be out there for awhile yet.

Finally, the Baffin Babes continue to struggle with illness on their journey across Baffin Island. After a brief respite on Saturday, in which they stayed in a “luxury camp”, they thought that they had recovered, but upon hitting the trail yesterday, two of the girls began to feel ill again. Their latest dispatch says that each of them has taken turns with this bout of illness, which includes vomiting and diarrhea, none of which sounds like very much fun when you’re also trekking across inhospitable terrain, dragging a heavy load, and it’s -30º outside. Good luck girls. Hope you’re feeling better soon.

April 29th, 2009 by admin

Adventure World Magazine has launched a revamped website, offering up an easier to navigate, and read format, and expanding their coverage of adventure activities from around the globe.

Adventure World has been a top resource on the web for outdoor endurance athletes and adventure racers for some time. They always have top notch updates on major adventure sport races, such as the Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge, Costa Rica’s Coast To Coast Challenge, or even the Iditarod. They’ve even partnered with Sleep Monsters to get the latest race reports from events as they happen, further making them a hub of adventure racing news.

But beyond their coverage of adventure sports, there is a lot more great content in general. For instance, there is a nice feature story on the site right now that reminds us how we can make every day Earth Day, and the articles further down the page spotlight some on going expeditions, gear reviews, and other general adventure news.

Adventure World has also embraced this whole “social media” thing that is all the rage with the kids these days. There are icons on the front page which offer easy access to their RSS feed, Facebook Group, and Twitter feed as well. The end result, even more ways to find their great content, and get updates.

Drop on by and checkout the new site. Then bookmark the page, join the Facebook group, and tweet about how much you love all the changes.

April 25th, 2009 by admin

Does South Africa have some kind of monopoly on cool races? Yesterday we had word of a cool new extreme trail race, and today marks the beginning of the 9th annual Royal Experience Swazi Xtreme Adventure Race.

Now, to be fair, Swaziland is an independent kingdom within South Africa. They have their own currency and everything. The remote and rugged terrain that covers much of the region is perfect for testing adventure athletes, and the Swazi Xtreme will do just that.

The race comes in two flavors, Pro and Sport. The Pro event runs non-stop, day and night, with teams going as much as 60 hours straight, while the Sport version offers three distinct stages, with a start and finish line each day. Both versions of the race feature teams of 2 or 4, which can be either coed or same gender. Those teams will be hiking, mountain biking, paddling, and bouldering their way across some of the most demanding terrain in the region.

To follow the event as it unfolds, a blog has been set up and updates are already beginning to make their way in. Race organizer Darron Raw has already begun filling us in on the details, with insights into the first stages of the race. Read his updates at the Swazi Xtreme Blog.

Thanks to Lisa from AR.co.za for giving me the heads up on the race.

April 25th, 2009 by admin

The Outside Blog, the official blog of Outside Magazine, has released their Top Ten list of Adventure Twitterers, and there are a few names that make the list that you might recognize.

The list is certainly diverse and interesting, with companies like Backcountry.com and REI earning a spot in the Top Ten, as well as individual adventurers like Roz Savage, who is busy preparing for a return to the sea, and climber Steph Davis, who is busy scaling rock faces, and then jumping off them.

The Gear Junkie earns a much deserved spot on the list as well, and our friend Alan Arnette tops the list as the number one adventure twitterer, with is amazing updates on Everest and his own on going climbs.

Look closer on the list, and you might even recognize a certain adventure blogger. Yep, Outside named me the #5 adventure twitterer, and I have to say I’m surprised and honored to be listed with everyone else. My friends will get a great chuckle out of this thanks to my reluctance to try Twitter in the first place. But, I have to admit, I’m a convert, and think it is pretty cool to make this list, despite the fact that my Twitter name makes an obvious reference to how big of a geek I am.

Thanks Outside!

April 25th, 2009 by admin

Time for a late week round up on what is happening in the Himalaya, where throughout the week we’ve been hearing that there are issues in the Khumbu Icefall near Everest. It was widely reported throughout the week that the route through the icefall, often called the most dangerous part of the mountain, had collapsed, preventing teams from making their way up to the high camps. The route was down for portions of three days in a row, but of course, it was repaired fairly quickly, Ice Doctors doing their usual bang-up job, and access was restored to the mountain once again. This is not an uncommon occurrence in the icefall, where the ice shifts constantly, and seracs collapse with regularity. It can obviously be quite dangerous, but the Docs are consummate professionals, and usually have things repaired ASAP.

For most of the teams, it was another acclimatization week on Everest, with many making their way up to C2 for the first time, where they generally spend the night, and sometimes all the next day as well. The process of getting your body use to that altitude is a slow one, so it is important to spend time there before returning once again to base camp. Alan Arnette conintues to update his Everest 2009 page with some great info of where everyone is at on the mountain, plus his own personal insights into what is going on.

ExWeb is also reporting that the Sherpas have fixed the lines as high as Camp 3, opening the door for the climbers to head on up to that point soon, and continue the acclimatization process. They are also reporting that the Kazakh team working the Lhotse-Everest Traverse, are already at 7300m as they make their alpine style go both summits.

The Himex Team has split into several groups, and are heading back to Lobuje Peak for another acclimatization climb according to Billi Bierling, who will be going for her second successful summit there. Of course, Russell Brice know what he is doing in get his clients ready for the big hill, but not all clients are treated the same, as David Tait, who has climbed with Brice in the past, will skip a second trip up Lobuje, and instead climb to C2 on Everest instead. David already has a successful North to South traverse to his name, and is quite experienced on the mountain.

Meanwhile, other teams are weighing in, with the Peak Freaks updating their blog to indicate that they have team members stretching from BC all the way up to C3 where the Sherpa are fixing ropes. IMG is in a similar position with climbers in BC, C1, and C2. They are also helping to coordinate with other teams on fixing the ropes, making sure everyone is contributing something to the cause. The Adventure Consultants are back in BC on the other hand, having already spent four nights on the mountain, including one night in both C1 and C3. The team is well ahead of the game when it comes to acclimatization and are feeling good at the moment.

On the North Side of Everest, things are still gearing up. The Summit Climb Team reached ABC this week, and there are several other teams strung out between base camp and advanced base camp, with an interim camp in between. ExWeb is also reporting that the Canadian team led by Manuel Pizarro have elected to go for a permit to climb from the Tibetan side of the mountain, rather than their planned South Col route. They are en route to North Base Camp, and hope to be there early next week.

Moving away from Everest and to some of the other peaks, it looks like it is go time on Manaslu, where teams are in the midst of a summit push at this very moment. There is reportedly a lot of snow on the mountain, and that is making things treacherous, but despite those conditions, teams hope to top out on Monday.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, the weather conditions are forcing teams to abandon the mountain altogether. There is a lot of snow on the upper slopes, and Annapurna is notoriously dangerous when it is prone to avalanches. Base camp is reportedly nearly empty already.

On Dhaulagiri, the Polish Tatra Rescuers Expedition has already made a run up to C3 and are currently back in base camp, resting, and waiting for a weather window to make a go at the summit. ExWeb also reports that sadly, Peter Hamor has returned to Kathmandu and is filling out reports on climbing partner and friend Piotr Morawski, who died on the mountain a few weeks back.

Finally, Ben Clark posts a dispatch on the Ski The Himalayas website with an update on their progress. He, along with friends Josh Butson and Jonathan Miller, have their hopes set on as summit, and ski descent of 23,390 foot Baruntse. The team is still two days away from BC, but it has already been quite an adventure, with plenty of rain and snow so far. Ben notes that yesterday alone they had to traverse three 14,000 foot passes, in whiteout conditions no less. The best part is that all of that hasn’t dampened Ben’s enthusiasm for the adventure at all, and just reading his words you can tell how excited he is to be back in the Himilaya. We should all be so lucky.