March 21st, 2010 by admin

The 2010 Himalaya season is probably still another week or two away from really getting started in ernest, but as I mentioned while back, there are already some teams on the ground in Nepal, with more than a few climbers making their way to Annapurna. ExWeb has an update from that region, with the news that Edurne Pasaban and her team are preparing to go to Camp 2 as early as tomorrow.

Edurne and company have been on the mountain since last week, and have already set up BC and Camp 1. Today they are planning to hike back up to C1 and spend the night, then proceed up to Camp 2 tomorrow, where they’ll cache their supplies for the climb ahead. The Spanish climber has just Annapurna and Shisha Pangma left on her list of 8000 meter peaks, and she’d love to knock them both off this season. To do that, she’ll need to acclimatize now, and get an early summit on Annapurna, before moving over to Shisha once Tibet re-opens to visitors.

Another woman chasing the glory of being the first female to nab all of the 8000 meter peaks is Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-Sun. She has just Annapurna left for herself, and is now in the process of preparing for that mountain. According to ExWeb she is currently acclimatizing on Tharpu Chuli, also known as Tent Peak, and will join her support team next week to begin the trek to base camp. Miss Oh has become such a celebrity back home that her climb will be broadcast on television there, and reportedly there is a crew of 15 following her from the network alone.

Meanwhile, Kinga Baranowska is back in the Himalaya and on her way to Pumori, which will serve as a warm-up for Annapurna. Currently, she and her “Pan-European” team are enjoying a trek through the Khumbu region, and reached Namche Bazaar a few days back. The all-star team of climbers from across Europe include Piotr Pustelnik and Kinga, both from Poland, Horia Colibasanu of Romania, Peter Hamor from Slovakia, Russians Sergey Bogomolov and Evgeny Vinogradskiy and Joao Garcia from Portugal. As you can imagine, all of those nationalities has led to some interesting language barrier issues amongst the team so far, although they do seem to be getting along well.

So, it seems that for now, Annapurna remains the center point of expeditions in the Himalaya. The 26,545 foot mountain may be the 10th highest in the world, but it is one of the most dangerous and difficult to climb. At this stage of the season, I’m sure there is still plenty of snow on the mountain. Hopefully it’ll remain safe in the days ahead.

March 21st, 2010 by admin

As he so often does, Alan Arnette has managed to once again put things into perspective when it comes to Mt. Everest. In his latest update, entitled Tweeting From Everest, Alan talks about how far we’ve come in terms of being able to communicate to and from the mountain, and how it has changed the way the mountaineers approach their expeditions, and how we follow along back home.

Alan notest that when he first went to Everest, he was able to send brief messages back to the world at $1 per character. His “Hi, I’m back safely” note set him back $19 just to be able to tell friends and family that he was down and in one piece. He also says that without his satellite phone, he’d be lost on his major expeditions, and that underscores how vital a connection back to the “real world” is to today’s climbers. In the old days, it was practically a media blackout while climbing for two months. Now, with the Internet virtually everywhere, it is another good way to pass the time while in BC.

Social media, such as Facebook and Twitter have certainly changed the way we can stay in touch while we travel or follow along with teams as they climb. Alan also points out that nearly every climber and/or team has a blog that posts regular updates from Everest to keep those back at home informed and in touch. A far cry from years passed when climbers literally disappeared off the grid for two months.

The article is really an interesting one, discussing how communications and the Internet have had an impact on everything revolves around everest, including how First Ascent used the whole expedition to promote their new gear. Alan goes on to talk about the top places on the web for information on the expeditions (Thanks for the shout out Alan!) and how that has effected our perceptions of what is happening at any given time on the mountain.

Another nice article, and further sets the stage for the season ahead. It’s going to be an exciting one.

March 19th, 2010 by admin

A new week brings a new episode of The Rest of Everest, which continues to give us an unprecedented look at what it is like to hike the Khumbu Valley all the way up to Everest Base Camp. Something I’m hoping to experience myself in less than a month’s time.

We’re up to Episode 134 cleverly titled Shhh…It Happens At Base Camp, and we rejoin Jon Miller and the other trekkers at BC. The episode opens with Jon and John still in the tent, where we get a lesson in pharmacology. The amount of prescription drugs that they’re using to stay healthy, and ahead of the altitude sickness, is unbelievable, and an eye opener.

Once they head outside though, the views are once again spectacular, and on that day there were climbers setting out on their summit bids, which made it even more exciting. There were teams heading through the Khumbu Icefall, and watching them as they make their way up the mountain is great to watch. Much of the time they are tiny little dots moving against the white snow, but when zoomed in, you can make out the details of the climbers going about their business. It really gives you a sense of scale of the mountain.

And once again showing us why there is no other show that gives you the complete look at Everest, we also get a FULL tour of the bathroom facilities in base camp, something you’re not likely to see anywhere else. In accordance to Nepali rules governing Everest, all waste material has to be packed off the mountain, and that is explained as well. Not the prettiest of video, but effective to be sure.

The rest of this week’s episode offers more video in and around base camp, with impressive views of Everest looming overhead. There is also good footage on the road to Kala Patthar, which I’m sure we’ll see more of next week.

As always, find the video online at the Rest of Everest website and directly in iTunes here.

March 19th, 2010 by admin

Obviously I write a lot about hiking and trekking, often in remote and exotic locations, such as the Himalaya. Recently, I had the opportunity to contribute to a story written by someone else, who was putting together a piece on trekking in Nepal for senior travelers. (Read: those over 50) The story is now available online at the Philadelphia Inquirer , and is a good read for those considering such a journey, no matter what age. You can find it by clicking here.

The author of the story, Alan Solomon, discusses the two most popular treks in the Himalaya, namely the hike up to Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna Circuit. Alan did the AC a few years back, and spent eight days in the Himalaya with a group of backpackers, many of which fell into the “senior” category. He paints an accurate, and not overly shiny, portrait of what it is like to visit these locations, and what travelers can expect while hiking there.

Essentially, Alan warns us that the trails are quite challenging, the air is thin, and that there is a good chance you could suffer some gastrointestinal disorder. But he also says that it is more than worth the effort, and that those on his expedition considered it one of the greatest travel experiences they had ever been on. In short, expect some discomforts, but you’ll be rewarded for the effort.

My contribution to the story comes at the end where we discuss changes to the Annapurna Circuit. That has long been considered by many to be the best trek in the world, but with the opening of a road through the region in recent years, the nature of the trek has changed fairly dramatically. What was once just mountain trails, villages, and tea houses, now has traffic, noise, and dust as well. By some accounts, it’s a shadow of its former self, while others say that road doesn’t diminish the beauty of the place to any great degree.

The bottom line is that the Himalaya are still one of the best trekking destinations anywhere, and given the opportunity, you should go, no matter what your age!

March 13th, 2010 by admin

Adventure World Magazine has posted a great interview with mountaineer Lei Wang, who was also recently the subject of an interview by Alan Arnette. Lei is the Chinese born climber who is preparing to leave for the Himalaya, where she’ll be making an attempt on Everest, the last obstacle in the way of her completion of the Seven Summits.

In the interview, Lei tells us about what led her to begin climbing and pursuing a life of adventure. She mentions seeing Touching the Void and Women of K2, both of which served as inspirations to her. She also talks about the adventurer she most admires (Shackleton!) and the most dangerous moments on her expeditions thus far, which includes complete whiteout conditions on Elbrus and being sick on summit day on Vinson. But that’s just the beginning. Lei also shares what her typical day is like as she prepares for her expeditions, gives us some insights into her training, and offers advice to other would-be adventurers.

Lei will leave for Kathmandu on the 20th of the Month, and begin the trek to Everest Base Camp soon there after. She’ll be climbing on the South Side of the mountain, and expresses concerns with negotiating the dangerous Khumbu Icefall. She tells Adventure World that she hopes to be on the summit approximately two months after her arrival in Nepal, on May 20th, but of course, that date is very fluid at this point.

Good luck to Lei on her Everest adventure. We’ll be following along.

March 11th, 2010 by admin

I’ve been mentioning it for weeks, and now it is upon us. The 2010 Himalaya season has begun, with the first teams already arriving in Kathmandu and setting out for the various peaks that they will challenge this spring. Meanwhile, as has become all to common in recent years, it seems that Tibet is once again closed to outside visitors.

ExWeb cited reports from climbers yesterday that the borders into Tibet are once again closed, with no set date for when they’ll reopen again. Rumors are suggesting that the travel restrictions will be lifted on April 10, although climbers may be allowed in sooner than that. As has been the case the past few years, the closure seems to be in conjunction with the anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising, which took place 51 years ago tomorrow. Reportedly, more than 400 people have already been arrested in Lhasa alone as part of a nationwide crackdown by the Chinese, who continue to insist they have nothing to hide in the country.

With Tibet once again sealed off to the outside world, mountaineers are headed to Nepali peaks to get the climbing season underway. Edurne Pasaban, for instance, is on her way to Annapurna. Her and the rest of the team, flew to Pokara today, where they’ll begin the trek to Annapurna Base Camp. They are already prepared to face challenging conditions however, as the snow is said to still be quite deep above 4500 meters.

Korean climber Miss Oh Eun-Sun has arrived in Kathmandu, and will be heading to Annapurna soon as well. She’ll make the famous trek there to acclimatize first, then hopes to set up camp in BC by mid-April. From there, she’ll be concentrating on her final 8000 meter peak, the 26,545 foot main summit of the massif.

Similarly, Joao Garcia of Portugal is going for his final 8000 meter peak as well, on the same mountain. ExWeb says that he has climbed all the previous 13 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen, and of course will do the same here. He departs Lisbon for Kathmandu tomorrow, and will spend some time there before moving on to Annapurna too. Check out the video below to learn more about Joao.

Finally, the season is underway. Expect more news in the days to come, with climbers on their way to Everest by the end of the month. It’s about to get very busy in the Himalaya.

March 11th, 2010 by admin

For most armchair mountaineers, Everest is the ultimate peak. Located in the heart of the Himalaya, the tallest mountain on the planet may be well traveled these days, but its lure is undeniable, as evidenced by all the attention it gets each year during the spring climbing season.

Most Everest fans know that there are multiple routes to the summit, with the vast majority of climbers making the approach from the South or North sides. But those two routes are vastly different from one another, and the experience in climbing them is quite unique. Who better to explain those differences than Alan Arnette, a man who has been to the mountain on several occasions, and covers the climbing season exhaustively each year.

On his Everest 2010 blog, Alan has posted a great article that spells out the differences between the two most commonly climbed routes. He explains the positives of climbing from each side, and lays out the concerns as well, before breaking down the stages to reaching the summit in detail, and pointing out the important landmarks along the way.

For instance, on the South Col route, which is on the Nepali side of the mountain, Alan notes that it the trek to BC is beautiful and local villages are a great place to acclimatize before going up the mountain. But he points out that the Khumbu Icefall must be negotiated from that side of the mountain. In contrast, the Northeast Ridge route, on the Tibetan side, is less crowded and allows you to drive to base camp, but it is generally windier and colder as well, and requires a longer summit night to be successful.

Looking at the routes in detail, Alan tells us about each stage of the climb, and how long it should take to get there. For instance, on the South side, the climb from BC to Camp 1 requires roughly 4-6 hours, but is also the most dangerous part of the route, as the mountaineers have to cross the Icefalls. He also notes the locations of such famous landmarks as the Yellow Band, the Balcony, and the Hillary Step. The same detailed look is applied to the North side, where we garner information not only on the various camps on that side of the mountain, but also the First and Second Steps, the Summit Pyramid, and so on.

With the season set to get underway soon, this article serves as a nice primer for those who will be following the teams in the next few months. And for those of us for which this is kind of old hat, it’s a nice reminder of the challenges the mountaineers have to overcome to stand on the summit of Everest.

March 11th, 2010 by admin

The Rest of Everest video podcast continues to give us an inside look at the trek to Everest Base Camp, with two more great episodes for fans of the show, and potential trekkers. One of these episodes was released late last week, and the other earlier today, so I’m just now getting the chance to watch the two videos.

The first episode is Episode 132: An Unbelievable Base Camp Surprise. As you can tell by the title of the episode, the team, or what’s left of it, arrives in BC, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, and the Khumbu Icefall. The original trekking group has been whittled down quite a bit, with only Rest of Everest producer Jon Miller, along with Steve Beatty, Jeff Coe and John Coleman actually completing the trek up the mountain. While in BC, Jon makes a phone call home to his mom, who is actually one of the guests on this week’s show, weighing in with her thoughts on these crazy adventures. For those that did make the trek all the way to BC, it is a mixture of relief, happiness, and a sense of accomplishment. Long time fans of the show will also be happy to see the return of Dawa, who played in integral role in the original episodes of the podcast.

The latest episode is #133: Meanwhile in Kala Patthar, which shows us what the rest of the crew, the ones who didn’t trek up to base camp, were doing while the others hung out in BC, and caught their breath. Unlike in the previous video, the weather has cleared, and with spectacular blue skies over head, the mountains offer up the amazing views you would expect when you’re above 17,500 feet. The show, as usual, continues to demonstrate why it is “an almost unabridged” look at what it takes to climb Everest with a demonstration of how to use a pee bottle as well.

Great episodes that both show the culmination of all the hard work to get up to EBC. While the trek isn’t over yet, as they have to get back down the mountain, this is what we’ve all been waiting to see.

March 9th, 2010 by admin

Wide World Magazine has another fun article online today, this time for the travelers amongst us. The online mag has put together their selection of 10 great rail adventures from around the globe, offering up some great suggestions on amazing places to visit by train.

The ten trips are not listed in any particular order, and fall under specific categories. For instance, they kick things off with the world’s most famous train ride, the Trans-Siberia, which stretches for more than 5000 miles through Russia’s most remote areas. The route can be completed in just a week or can be explored for months, depending on your itinerary, and there are side routes that travel through Mongolia, pass into Beijing, and glide by Lake Baikal, the largest freshwater lake in the world.

Other classic train rides that make the list include the highest in the world in the form of the China-Tibet line, a historic route along the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, and their pick for the best train ride through Europe, the Bernina Express in Switzerland.

If you’ve ever wanted to make an amazing journey by rail, there are certainly more than a few great recommendations here. Personally, I think a long distance train ride would make for a fantastic travel experience, and I’d love to do just about every one of the trips on this list.

March 5th, 2010 by admin

Speaking of the Seven Summits, our friend Alan Arnette has another good interview posted this week. This time Alan speaks with Chinese climber Lei Wang, who is closing in on the Adventure Grand Slam, which consists of reaching the top of the Seven Summits and skiing to both the North and South Pole. In Lei’s case, she has just Everest left to conquer, which she hopes to do this spring.

Like many who have completed the Seven Summits, Lei’s love of mountaineering began when she reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the tallest mountain in Africa at 19,340 feet. That climb opened a sense of adventure in the young woman, and her desire to climb the remaining Summits was fueled further when she learned that no Chinese woman had accomplished the feat. Since then, she has stood atop Elbrus, Denali, Aconcagua, Carstensz Pyramid, and Vinson. Along the way, she also managed to go to the top and bottom of the world, on skis to both Poles.

In the interview, Lei talks briefly about her childhood in China, how things changed when she came to the U.S. to pursue an MBA, her first trip to the mountains, and a whole lot more. She touches on her training methods (puling those darn tires!), her mental preparation, and what it’s going to be like to tell her parents she’s going to Everest. As of the interview, she still hasn’t broken it to them. *gulp*

If she is successful in reaching the summit of Everest, Lei will become just the tenth person to complete the Adventure Grand Slam, putting her in very elite company with the likes of Max Chaya, Cecilie Skog, and Park Young Seok, who has also climbed each of the 8000 meter peaks as well. Pretty impressive accomplishment, and it should be fun to see if she is successful this spring.